Hampi - Unraveling the whispers of a Grand India

I have visited many places, but going to Hampi was a lot more than a visit, it was an experience. In the midst of all the criticism we hear and the complaints we make about our country, Hampi showed me a side of India that I didn't know existed. And it made me wonder what India must have been like, once upon a time, and what it could have been.

Hampi was actually the capital of the Vijaynagara Empire of India in 1336–1646 AD, a powerful South Indian kingdom renowned for its advancements in art, architecture, trade, and culture. It was ruled by four major dynasties over its existence, with almost 20 rulers contributing to its glory and eventual decline. It's greatest ruler was Raja Krishnadevaraya, described by some as "the most perfect king there could be", under whom, the empire reached its zenith in power, culture, and prosperity.

Every monument in Hampi had a story to tell so I have decided to write another blog only on the story of monuments in Hampi. Here in this blog I will only try to capture my overall experience and what I found most captivating about Hampi.

I have visited many temples in India, but there was something very unique about temples and monuments in Hampi. I will try to capture few such unique aspects here.

Temples: not just a place of worship

The temples were not just a place of worships back in the time. Every temple has a large Bazaar right in front of the temple entrance, which is nothing but a bunch of trade stalls lined up. Krishna temple had Krishna Bazaar, Virupaksha temple had Virupaksha Bazaar. This ancient marketplaces were once a bustling trade hub during the Vijayanagara Empire. Most of it is in ruins now with its stone structures standing as silent witnesses to its glorious past. One can only imagine the vibrancy of the market in its prime.

I could almost hear the hum of activity—merchants haggling over precious spices and gemstones, the clinking of coins, and the rhythmic beats of drums echoing during temple festivals. The thought of this once-thriving marketplace, alive with traders from distant lands like Persia and Portugal, bustling with colors and sounds, left me in awe.

The Masterstrokes

What mesmerized me the most was the sheer attention to detail and the breathtaking intricacy of the carvings adorning every monument in Hampi. I have seen carvings across multiple temples and caves across India, but what I saw in Hampi was unparalleled craftsmanship. It felt as though the stone itself had been brought to life by the hands of master craftsmen, their dedication and skill etched into every curve and contour.

What caught my eye at the temples, were statues of these strange animals. They had head and ears of a deer, trunk of an elephant and body of a horse. It just made me realize how creative the artisans must have been, and how much they thought out of the box in that ancient time. No carving was ordinary in Hampi.

And then I came across the musical pillars at the Vijaya Vitthala temple, and it just left me speechless. These simple stone pillars are hollow from inside and they produce musical notes when tapped in different places. The craftsmanship that allowed stone to produce melodies was a testament to the genius of the artisans.

Pushkaranis

Another unique and beautiful aspect about all the temples was the Pushkaranis - sacred water tanks situated alongside every temple in Hampi. They were often fed by canals, and natural springs, ensuring a continuous supply of water. They are believed to have served as a vital part of the empire’s water management system and were integral to the religious and social life of the city. Many believe that these tanks are not just reservoirs but hold symbolic meaning, representing the cleansing of the soul and the connection between humans and the divine. The most famous Pushkarani is near the Mahanavami Dibba, which is a square structure with multiple levels of descending steps, resembling an inverted pyramid, an architectural marvel.

Unique Food of Hampi

There were many cafes and good restaurants in Hampi to try continental food and I did go to many of them. But the place that I will never forget is this small and humble roadside local eatery called 'Hari Hara Vilas'. If you really don't mind stepping out of your comfort zone for good food, this is your go to place. I had breakfast here every single day and from traditional south Indian dishes like Idli, Medu wada, Appams to rice preparations, I tried it all and had both my stomach and mind full. I am really not exaggerating when I say this - I really might go to Hampi again only to eat at this place!

The number of tasty dishes were plenty, but what I loved the most in Hampi was their unique Mirchi Bajji. I had tried Mirchi pakoda earlier as well but the one in Hampi tasted a lot different as the chilli was different, Much spicy but much tasty indeed!

And if you are ever in Hampi you have to try their traditional Banoffee Pie! It was much like a banana pudding topped with fresh coconut, and chocolate, served chilled on a banana leaf. It was very different from the Banoffee pie I had tried in pastry shops in Northern India and it's definitely worth a try. I tried this one at the Mango Tree Restaurant.

Sunrise & Sunsets in Hampi

You can call me old fashioned but even till today my most cherished memories in any place in the world are the sunrise and sunset, and Hampi definitely did not disappoint. I got to witness one of my most memorable sunrises and sunsets there. My most favourite sunrise was on a short hike to Achyutaraya temple and best sunset was at Kamalapura lake, that is where below pictures were taken :)

The Lost Grandeur

Now people say Hampi is in ruins, but I didn't feel so. I could see nothing but beauty in each and every monument I came across. I feel the real destruction is the lack of awareness and respect we have as Indians for our own history and culture. As I was visiting the monuments alone, I often felt unsafe at few places even in broad daylight, as there were no security guards, and no CCTV surveillance at most monuments. And when I went to visit the monuments at around 9 PM in the hope of catching the magnificent beauty in the moonlight, I saw many rowdy locals sitting there and drinking right next to the temples, so I didn't go in. It was really disheartening to see.

I genuinely feel that only declaring it a UNESCO world heritage site is not enough, we all should treat such places with the respect they deserve.

The Seen and the Unseen...

Everything I saw in Hampi was something that I had never seen before. Visiting Hampi was like a journey into the past, offering a glimpse into the architectural brilliance and vibrant cultural life of an era that shaped South Indian history.

I often just sat alone at the monuments, trying to absorb all the energy of the place, and I could do that because it really felt like the place had a soul. And if in that moment I could make one wish, I would have wished for just one moment into that time space where I could witness Hampi in its original, full form and scale.

I can offer nothing but prayers and praise for the great rulers of this empire, their exceptional vision, and the people who build this magnificent wonder called Hampi. Glory to the Vijayanagara Empire of India!